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Help & FAQ

A guide on how to read our working drawings, along with answers to common questions.

Important: Before you cut or order

All content on LayPattern is intended as a planning aid. The official installation instructions for your product always take precedence, particularly regarding expansion gaps, joint offsets, subfloor requirements, acclimatisation, and underfloor heating. Always double-check measurements before cutting materials or ordering from a supplier.

How to read the working drawing

On an unlocked room, the drawing clearly marks the starting point and the main laying direction (green arrow). You can toggle this visibility using Laying direction (or Mounting direction for ceilings).

The green dot is the start point and the arrow is the laying direction. Start at the dot and work along the arrow. With boards, each row usually starts with the offcut from the row before, which staggers the joints. Tiles centred in the room start in the middle and go outward, so the cuts match on opposite walls. In the app, the green box above the drawing also says how your pattern starts, for example if the first board must be cut.

First row. Lay it straight along the arrow, using a chalk line or a straightedge. Keep an even expansion gap to the walls with spacers.

laying directionwallgaptongue → wallgroove → room

Tongue & groove: tongue to the wall, groove to the room.

laying directionwallgaptongue → wallgroove → room

Click parquet: angle each board into the row before and press it down until it locks. No glue.

Which way the boards face. The tongue is trimmed off against the start wall, so the groove faces the room and takes the next board. Boards nailed or stapled through the tongue go the other way round. Always follow your product's own instructions.

Floating floor and gaps. A floating floor moves, so it needs a gap at every wall and around pipes, columns and thresholds. The Floating floor setting under Set-out is on by default and leaves the gap at the walls. Set Expansion gap to the figure in your product's instructions. Around no-lay zones, leave the gap yourself when you cut.

⚠ Note: The right expansion gap depends on the product, the room size and the humidity. LayPattern's figure is only a starting point. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. You are responsible for the gap you set.

Understanding Tongue and Groove

Not all locking systems are identical. For click-lock floors and interlocking panels, the designer automatically determines the optimal starting corner. For other profiles, we ask which edge you prefer against the wall.

TongueGrooveOne board, viewed from the end
One board viewed from the end. The tongue protrudes on the left, and the groove is the slot on the right. On modern click-systems, the groove's lower lip is longer and hooks under the next board, locking the floor together without glue.
  • Parquet and laminate (click-system)

    Click-systems can only be assembled in one direction, so the designer automatically selects the starting corner. Use the “Turn layout” feature if you need to start from a different wall.

  • Solid floorboards and traditional wood panelling

    A traditional, straight tongue with no click-lock hook. These can often be laid in either direction, which is why the designer will ask for your preference. Solid boards that are secretly nailed or stapled are typically laid with the groove facing the starting wall.

  • Interlocking ceiling boards and foil-wrapped panels

    These lack a click-lock joint but are often fixed through a thin nailing flange concealed by the next panel. They can only assemble in one direction. Depending on whether they run parallel or perpendicular to the battens, there are two possible starting corners.

Labels on pieces and offcuts

R1-1
A full piece or section you are installing: Row 1, Piece 1 (counted from the start corner).
K1-1
The cross-cut offcut remaining from piece R1-1. Keep it.
S1-1
The ripped strip (cut lengthwise) remaining from piece R1-1. Keep it.

When you cut a board, the drawing will tell you what label to write on the offcut. Set it aside, and the cut list will tell you exactly where it needs to be reused. For herringbone and chevron patterns, pieces are simply numbered sequentially (#1, #2, etc.).

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How do I start a design?
What is the difference between Free, Single Pass, and Pro?
What passes and features can I buy?
What happens when my access to a room expires?
Can I resize a room after it has been unlocked?
How do I print or save the plan as a PDF?
Can I share a drawing with someone else?
What does the cut list show?
Why is there a warning on my pattern?
What is a license seat, and what happens if the team runs out?
Does LayPattern replace the manufacturer's instructions?
How do I contact support?